Galway has quite a few notable sites and structures which have become globally known iconic images, such as the Claddagh Ring and the Hooker Sails. The modern City Museum next to the Spanish Arch illustrates the consistent intertwining of old and new culture on nearly every street corner around town.
I will be posting articles on these and other Galway City landmarks in the coming days and weeks!
#1 Eyre Square
Eyre Square was officially presented to the city in 1710 by Mayor
Edward Eyre. The area once simply known as ‘The Green’ was originally an
assembly point in medieval times, popular for its proximity to the city gates,
and to this day has remained the focal point of the city.
The earliest efforts made to enhance the aesthetic of the
Square were made in 1631. Trees were planted and a wooden fence was built
outlining the perimeter. In 1984 a commemorative fountain was crafted, its
shape emulating that of a Galway Hookers sails, and placed in the Northern end
of the Square. It marked the 500th anniversary of the City’s charter,
granted by King Richard III in 1484, liberating Galway from the feudal lordship
of the De Burgo Clan.
A Hooker is a type of boat often sailed in the bay by the Claddagh fishermen. Traditionally they paint their sails with a solution made from the bark of a tree to make them stronger. This local custom is known as ‘Barking the Sails’ and gives them their red / brown appearance.
The park was officially renamed ‘Kennedy Memorial Park’ after a visit by former US President John F. Kennedy in 1963, shortly before his assassination. He was made a Freeman of the city and bronze plaque near the fountain commemorates the event.
Eyre Square as we see it today is a result of major reconstruction works which finished in 2006, costing the city nine million euro. Previously preferred by lawn lounging bohemians, it is now enjoyed as a quaint spot to sit and eat an outdoor lunch.
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#2 Galway City Museum
Highlights within the museum include the statue of famous Padraic O’Conaire who was rehoused here from his original perch in Eyre Square. The 28 foot Galway Hooker suspended from the atriums is another spectacular display. The boat, named ‘Martin Oliver’, honours the last King of the Claddagh to sail a working Hooker, custom made for the museum. For those interested in the City’s medieval history, the ‘Galway Civic Sword’ encased on the first floor dates from 1610. It was during this time that King James I gave authority to carry such a weapon in front of the mayor.
#5 The Long Walk
Ard Bia restaurant at the top end of the Long Walk is a great little spot with a friendly 'Boho' vibe. The Long Walk is an endearing area for a mid summer sunset stroll.
The Galway
City Museum was founded in 2006, built behind the Spanish Arch. It is
a magnificent educational and recreational resource for locals and tourists,
housing a vast treasury of artefacts from local archaeological excavations.
The core
exhibitions focus on the history and heritage of the city including ‘Routes to
the Past’ which is a look at prehistoric Galway, and ‘Galway within the Walls’,
the Medieval City.
The museum is set over
three floors with stunning views of the River Corrib and the Claddagh.
Highlights within the museum include the statue of famous Padraic O’Conaire who was rehoused here from his original perch in Eyre Square. The 28 foot Galway Hooker suspended from the atriums is another spectacular display. The boat, named ‘Martin Oliver’, honours the last King of the Claddagh to sail a working Hooker, custom made for the museum. For those interested in the City’s medieval history, the ‘Galway Civic Sword’ encased on the first floor dates from 1610. It was during this time that King James I gave authority to carry such a weapon in front of the mayor.
The museum holds regular
weekend workshops for kids and boasts an amazing cup of coffee at the in-house
café ‘the Kitchen’. It’s a great starting place to delve into Galway’s rich history.
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The site previously served as the City Jail until it was demolished in 1902. The cathedral combines several architectural styles including peaked gothic arches along the nave and round Romanesque pillars and domes. Distinguishing features such as the stained glass rose window above the organ and the scattering of intricate mosaics exhibit the tradition of Christian Art. From the outside one of the more prominent features is the 44.2 metre high dome towering over Nun’s Island and visible for miles.
#3 The Cathedral
The Roman Catholic Cathedral beside the Salmon Weir Bridge
is a relatively contemporary temple in a city of historical sites. Constructed
over 8 years it was completed in 1965 and dedicated to Our Lady Assumed into
Heaven and St. Nicholas.
The site previously served as the City Jail until it was demolished in 1902. The cathedral combines several architectural styles including peaked gothic arches along the nave and round Romanesque pillars and domes. Distinguishing features such as the stained glass rose window above the organ and the scattering of intricate mosaics exhibit the tradition of Christian Art. From the outside one of the more prominent features is the 44.2 metre high dome towering over Nun’s Island and visible for miles.
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There are a number of unresolved myths surrounding the circumstance of the unlawful murder. One account of the incident suggests that the young Spaniard was killed for courting the young Lynch’s girlfriend. Another tells the tale of a financial dispute, as Galway had strong trade links with Spain at the time. However there is no official record of the reason.
#4 The Salmon Weir Bridge
#4 The Lynch Memorial Window
This bridge was constructed in 1818 and previously named the ‘Gaol
Bridge’ (meaning ‘Jail Bridge’). The crossing was originally intended to link
the courthouse on one side of the river, across to the site of the old city gaol
(Jail) where the Cathedral now stands. In 1902 came the destruction of the jail
and the construction of a weir three quarters of a mile from the mouth of the
river Corrib. It was then renamed the ‘Salmon Weir Bridge’.
Every year from April until early July people gather along
the bridge to witness the seasonal shoal of salmon swim upstream to spawn.
During this season you will also notice anglers standing in the river fishing
for salmon, anchoring themselves within the fast flowing current.
This is the largest weir in the country with a water flow of
4 million gallons per second at full flood and 100,000 gallons per second at
low flow.
The bridge offers a great view point and photo opportunity
of the Cathedral and the river path, particularly around sunset.
#4 The Lynch Memorial Window
This memorial window set in a stone façade is a nineteenth
century structure constructed in 1894 and is a fine display of heritage tourism. It commemorates the ‘stern and unbending justice’ of former
mayor James Fitzstephen Lynch. The mayor, who also acted as the City’s magistrate,
convicted his son Walter of a young Spaniard Merchant’s murder in 1493. He hung
his own son from an upper story window, performing the execution to upkeep
public justice.
There are a number of unresolved myths surrounding the circumstance of the unlawful murder. One account of the incident suggests that the young Spaniard was killed for courting the young Lynch’s girlfriend. Another tells the tale of a financial dispute, as Galway had strong trade links with Spain at the time. However there is no official record of the reason.
This tragic incident gives us an insight into the mind of
one of Galway’s most powerful and influential bureaucrats, whose devotion to
his civic duty overshadowed his paternal allegiance.
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#5 The Long Walk
The Long Walk runs alongside the banks of the river Corrib where it meets Galway Bay. This stretch of land is dotted with colorful houses and extends beyond the Spanish Arch, connecting it to the Docks. It was created in the 18th
century by the notoriously wealthy Eyre family as an extension of the Quays.
Befitting of the local maritime history, you'll notice the string of small fishing boats in the river are tied to the pavement, like casually parked cars!
Ard Bia restaurant at the top end of the Long Walk is a great little spot with a friendly 'Boho' vibe. The Long Walk is an endearing area for a mid summer sunset stroll.
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# 6 Blackrock
The Blackrock diving board punctuates the two kilometer long promenade, which folds around Salthill village along the bay, leading to the Claddagh. Salthill is a busy seaside town year round, facilitating prom walkers to admire the gorgeous bay views, both day and night.
During the summer months, Blackrock diving board is a beloved spot for a quick dip. This is also the site of Galway's 'Christmas Swim', where fund raising locals wade bravely in freezing temperatures in support of a local homeless charity.
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# 7 The Spanish Arch
The Spanish Arch is a late 16th Century defence
fortress, built in 1584 to protect the Quays. At that time England and Spain
were at war and in anticipation of a Spanish invasion this famous monument was
built.
Originally longer with four arches, it was called Ceann na
Bhaile, meaning Head of the Wall. This is because the City Wall extended from
this point up Merchant’s Road until it reached Eyre Square. Galway became a
fortified city in 1270, the sixteen foot high walls protecting the 25 acres of
prosperous trading grounds and its inhabitants. The current title, ‘Spanish Arch’, dates from the last
century, in reference to the affluent merchant trade with Spain who’s galleons
often docked under its protection.
Directly in front of the Spanish Arch, in an area now known
as the Spanish Parade, is where the Fish market was once held. The women of the
Claddagh would cross O’Brien’s Bridge to sell the fish caught in the Bay.
During medieval times this was the city’s only bridge.
Nearby you will notice
the sculpture of a seabird. The Columbus Sculpture was given to the City in
1992 from the city of Genoa, Columbus’ birthplace. It marks the 500th
anniversary of the discovery of America and commemorates Columbus’s stay in
Galway in 1477.
On sunny days, St. Patrick's Day, Leaving Cert Results Day or indeed any dry summer's day, the masses kick back on it's sun trapped lawns.
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# 8 The Claddagh
This area is
one of Ireland’s oldest fishing villages, its existence on record since the 5th
century, documented by the Early Christians. It is situated on the Western edge
of the city where the River Corrib meets Galway Bay and is known globally for
the Claddagh Ring. The Irish word for Claddagh is “An Cladach” meaning “the
stony shore”, an undeniably apt physical description.
The village
existed separately from the fortified city of Galway which was established
under the De Burgo authority in the 11th century. They were a Gaelic
community who dressed and spoke differently to those across the river, who were
under Norman rule.
Up until the
20th century the women continued to wear their traditional shawls
and everyone spoke in the Irish language. They would seldom marry outside their
own, which helped keep their customs alive. Every year on St. John’s Day they
would elect a King and sheriffs. The King was the highest authority and passed
the laws for the village.
The
community earned a living from catching and selling fish from the Bay. The men
sailed the traditional Galway Hooker boats whilst the women cleaned and sold
the fish at the nearby Fishmarket. The Hooker’s sails are given their
distinctive rusted red/brown appearance from the solution containing tree bark,
a tradition known as ‘Barking the sails’, stiffening them to protect from the
harsh coastal wind.
By the 1890’s
the Claddagh was an active and thriving area of Galway dotted with thatched
cottages and had a fleet of Hookers in the bay. However, by the 1930’s the
Galway Corporation declared the village uninhabitable following a severe
outbreak of TB, the cottages sadly destroyed and replaced by a council estate.
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# 9 Lynch's Castle
Towering tall over the corner of Shop St. and Abbey Gate
St., this castle once housed the Lynch’s, one of Galway’s most powerful
merchant families. This sixteenth century structure is an example of Irish
Gothic architecture and is the sole surviving Townhouse of which there were
once fourteen.
Pierce Lynch was elected Galway city’s first mayor on
December 15th 1484. Over the following 169 years, 84 Lynch’s held
the mayoral office, one of the more famously known being James Lynch-Fitzstephen. It is said that in 1493 he hung his only son
Walter from the window after he was charged as guilty for the murder of a young
Spanish visitor.
The castle is built of limestone and displays various
interesting stone features. The tilted gargoyles to the top once ran rainwater
away from the roof. The stone harness raised high on the East Wall would be
used to haul heavy furniture to the upper floors.The heavily carved façade bears the Lynch and Fitzgerald families
coat of arms, beneath that the Crest of King Henry VIII. If you look closely
just below this you may notice the figure of a monkey holding a baby, which
pays tribute to the pet primate who rescued a toddler from the burning building.
Today the building houses the AIB Bank. The ground floor is
open to the public and has a 17th century fireplace on display in
the foyer. It remains beautifully preserved and is a good example of the old /
new aesthetic to be found in the City.
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# 10 Nora Barnacle's House
Nora Barnacle (1884-1951) was the wife and muse of Irish
literary James Joyce. She was to provide the inspiration for the character Moll
Bloom in James Joyce’s ‘Ulysses’.
This is the tiny two room house in which she lived with her
mother and several siblings until she left Galway in 1904. Not only is it the
smallest house on the Bowling Green row of houses, it is also Ireland’s
smallest museum, fully restored to its 1900’s condition.
It is open to the public during the summer months.
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# 11 Shop St.
Shop St is the main thoroughfare in Galway City and was once
the first entry point beyond the City Gates.
If you walk from Eyre Square along Willimsgate St. you will notice the
road curve to the right. This marks the site where the Cromwellian barracks
once kept Galway subdued. Do not follow
the bend and continue walking straight, ahead of you is Shop St.
This pedestrianized route leads you through the city’s main
shopping district. There is an abundant variety of places to eat, drink and shop
which line the street, varying from chain stores to local boutiques and cafes. Halfway down to your right is Lynch’s castle,
once home to the powerful Lynch family and now a bank.
You won’t travel very
far before seeing a string of buskers and street performers, who add to the
bohemian city vibe.
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# 12 Quay St.
Quay St. is a lively part of the city known best for its
pubs and restaurants.
Daytime shoppers have many unique craft and jewellery
shops to choose from like ‘Wooden Heart’ and ‘Twice as Nice’. The street which
begins at Tig Neachtain and ends at the Jury’s Inn comes alive at night. Many
of the pubs open until 2 am and have live music several nights weekly.
Diners
can choose from several cuisines from the continent and beyond. McDonagh’s
award winning fish and chips, serve locally caught fish whilst KC Blakes offers
the best in fine dining, catering for the full spectrum of budgets.
It is a
fantastic part of town to sit outdoors and soak up the buzz.
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# 13 The Oscar Wilde Statue
As you walk around the top end of Shop St. you will see a
bronze statue of famous Irish writer Oscar Wilde (1854-1900). He is sitting on
a bench next to his contemporary, Estonian writer Eduard Wilde (1865-1933).
This is a replica of the statue which resides outside an Irish pub in Tartu,
Estonia. It was given to the city of Galway as a gift in 2004 by the Estonian
people, marking their membership into the EU in that same year.
The imaginary conversation in the sculpture is a fantasy as
the two never did meet. Why not sit between the two of them and imagine what
they might say had they met!
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# 14 The Market
Located along Market St. and continuing up Lombard St. is
the Galway Market. For decades farmers and tradesmen have gathered here from
the surrounding towns and county to sell their produce.
The fresh edible goods
from fish, vegetables, eggs and olives to tasty crepes and aromatic curries
bring together a culmination of cultural culinary options to try. Handmade
crafts such as clothes, jewellery and children’s toys make great unique gifts
and souvenirs to bring home. Highlights include Japanese sushi, New York
doughnuts and the infamous ‘Big Mick’ crepe.
It’s proximity to
Shop St makes it easy to find. The narrow Market St. lane is set against the
medieval church of St Nicholas adding to its old world charm.
Galway market trades every Saturday and Sunday, with
extended opening hours at Christmas and during the summer.
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**More landmarks to follow...**
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